• Category Archives Enhancing Fuel Efficiency with The Gadgetman Groove
  • With The Gadgetman Groove and how it changes combustion properties, there is a variety of ways an individual can further enhance their fuel efficiency. Much is experimental, but solidly based in science. If you have The Gadgetman Groove and want to get still BETTER mileage and performance, here I show you how to do it!

  • Post 4-Flubbing the Dub

    If you haven’t started at the beginning, then you are missing some things in your education. Please go to Post 1 and start there NOW to be sure you get a thorough understanding.

    In performing any modification or repair, it is important that your work be done well, leaving the vehicle with the ONLY changes to be the work you’ve done. When performing or experiencing Wave-Form Technology everybody can “Flub the Dub”.

    Sometimes, we (yes, “WE” meaning me, too!) make mistakes. We overlook stuff, especially when we’re excited or walking unfamiliar paths. I’ve modified more than 1800 engines with The Gadgetman Groove, so you would THINK I never miss a beat by now. But you have to remember that every vehicle is different

    But the Truth is that I, too, am only human.

    The very FIRST thing to do is to check your work. How the vehicle responds to Wave-Form Technology determines what you should do. We’ll start with the most common problems here, starting with the R&R (Removal and Reinstallation) of the throttle assembly.

    If you’re new to this, or dealing with a rather complex system, it is a good idea to take some pictures of the engine before you begin. Take a few seconds here-maybe as much as a minute, and take shots from all angles around the work you’re about to do. That way, if you find some problems after install, you can compare the pictures before to what’s left.

    (SIDEBAR: Remember to clear the ECU of all adaptive memory while the TB is off !!!)

    So, now you have your pictures and you’re ready to begin. You remove the throttle assembly and it’s starting to come off the engine. LOOK OUT! WATCH THAT GASKET!!

    Some engines have rubberized seals on their TB’s, some have actual gaskets. If they have a gasket, then there is a possibility the gasket is damaged. Honda’s are the absolute WORST for this, as their gaskets many times have an adhesive that dries to something along the line of epoxy. Many times, I have had to tap the TB with a hammer to get it loosened for removal, only to find the gasket completely destroyed.

    I keep some 1/32″ gasket material on a shelf above my workbench for just this eventuality. I simply cut a new gasket for cases like this.

    In the event your gasket separates, leaving portions on each surface, ALL the material needs to be removed and new material applied. Make sure you’re prepared for this (or there’s a part store handy) or you are liable to leave a DRAMATIC leak.

    In the event yours has a rubberized seal, then it is considered ‘reusable’, and all that is needed is to inspect it for damage and/or leaky spots. Sometimes they’re leaking before you touch them. This will leave traces on the gasket surface. Get yourself a flashlight. Where it has held its integrity the seal will look like new. Any discoloration that is NOT broken by a clean surface IS a leak.

    Replace the seal. Do not think the seal will automatically regenerate because it’s in the hands of a Master Gadgetman! Trust me. Bite the bullet, spend the three bucks and get a new one. Use a pick to remove it from the slot in which it resides and clean the slot with carb spray and place the new one in the groove.

    Standard seal for a GM Throttle Assembly

    That takes care of the removal part. Now onto the Groovy part.

    The first thing you will want to do is to check your Groove. Here’s a video I took while working with a trainee in instructing him in the fine art of Grooving:

    With your grooved and cleaned throttle assembly in your hands, you should, with flashlight in hand, inspect The Groove. Shine your trusty penlight into the groove, and look very closely at the entire throttle body, aiming the light toward your eye, with the throttle body between. Do this from two directions, both from the inside out and the outside in and if there is a spot where you’ve cut through, it will show.

    If you find a hole, all you need do is simply put a patch on the OUTSIDE of the throttle assembly. Do I need to tell you to prepare the surface? It tells you that on EVERY package’s instructions! If you fail to clean the surface of all grease AND OXIDATION then you are setting yourself up for failure.

    I will clean the outside of the offending area with a good solvent, and then use a 1/8″ drill bit (it fits the Dremel) to abrade away all oxidation. THEN and ONLY then do I mix up my JB-Kwik and apply it to the opening. After it’s hardened somewhat (10-15 minutes) I will re-inspect it to make sure I got the hole covered. This is especially important if you have a large hole.

    In the event of a larger hole, mix in some of your aluminum shavings with the epoxy. This will thicken it somewhat so less will go through the hole. Then, when you apply it to the TB, take a large pinch of these shavings and drop it inside The Groove and, using your finger, press it gently against the area that had the penetration. Hold the TB with the epoxy at the top and your finger inside for a couple of minutes while it hardens.

    It is advised that you take your bit at a slow speed and clean The Groove from any epoxy that made its way into your brand new groove. This will enable you to guarantee a better shape, which will give you by extension better results.

    Then, and only then are you ready to reinstall the Groovy TB.

    Once the throttle body is back in, you are going to need to find the PCV system’s vacuum port(s). This is usually very straightforward, but sometimes can be quite difficult to locate, as in the case illustrated below:

    Potential trouble spots for the 2003 Honda Accord

    In this system, the PCV port is UNDER the intake manifold!

    In the case above, the 03 Honda Accord, this is a real horror story, for the intake manifold needed to be removed to eliminate the vacuum leak they call the PCV port. Still, it is what it is, and it must be addressed to get the most from your Gadgetman Groove installation.

    There are literally a thousand or more locations where a leak can occur in the vacuum system. It isn’t always possible to locate them all, nor is it always fiscally feasible to repair them once they’re located. Many people simply do not have the funds available for some repairs, as in the case of a leaky intake manifold gasket or a bad brake booster.

    The booster you can check before The Groove is applied. I do HEARTILY recommend checking this FIRST, so you know about it and can inform the client BEFORE the work is completed. I have found that about 20% of vehicles older than 5 years have leaks there.

    The MityVac 8500 is my choice.
    This is the MityVac 8500. One of the most complete vacuum and low-pressure testers on the market for the price. At less than $50USD, you really can’t go wrong!

    The last one was on a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500. Of course, I didn’t check it until AFTER Grooving, so the customer was disappointed. You see, in his case (which is a good one for this illustration) he is living off social security and has little money available for vehicle maintenance. So long as the brakes were stopping the vehicle, he was fine with it.

    Still, the booster wouldn’t hold ANY vacuum. That made it as much a leak as the PCV system! But, as the booster was about $150, and the labor another $200+, he was ill-equipped to have the repair done. I did offer, should he get the parts, to perform the work for free.

    I’m going to close here, as it’s as good a spot as any!

    It’s time for you to move on to Post Five: Varnish and Vacuum.

    If you would like to learn this amazing fuel efficiency technology, we want to hear about it! Contact me, Ron Hatton, the developer of The Gadgetman Groove and we’ll see what we can do about that.

    Email me personally at Gadgetman@ GadgetmanGroove.com with any comments or suggestions, too!

    Post 1-Basic Flows in a Gasoline Engine

    Post 2-Intake Flows and Wave-Form Technology

    Post 3-Improving the Vacuum System

    Post 5-Varnish and Vacuum

    Post 6-Hidden Weaknesses

    Post 7-Diagnosing Error Codes

    Post 8-The Role of Sensors in Fuel Delivery

    Post 9-Adjusting Your Spark Plug for Maximum Efficiency

  • Post 3-Improving the Vacuum System

    This is part 3 in a series. If you haven’t started at the beginning, please go to Post-1 and start your training at the beginning, and do it NOW!

    Where does all the energy in your gasoline go? This graphic was borrowed from the EPA website as a confession of sorts, as they admit here for the world to see that 1t least 60% of the energy in your fuel is considered lost through heat in your exhaust.

    Engine Energy Losses EPA 60 percent

    Look closely at this! As the EPA is willing to admit that 60% of your fuel burns in your tailpipe, how bad do you think it REALLY is?

    (According to my numbers, based on mileage increases in Grooved vehicles, this number is probably closer to 90-95% loss!)

    As our challenge is to glean every ounce of energy in the fuel to deliver power to the piston, from the above graphic you can see that if we are able to get ALL the fuel to burn inside the engine, we could at LEAST double the mileage of every car in the nation.

    (We have known vehicles to gain as much as 600% with The Groove and other adjustments.)

    Because engines are terribly inefficient (what else would you call 60% of your fuel burning in your tailpipe?), and we are working to increase that efficiency, The Groove will many times reveal overlooked maintenance issues. It’s not that The Groove CAUSES them, it is only they become more apparent after The Groove is added.

    The most common deficiencies are found in the vacuum system. There are sometimes hundreds of locations where a vacuum leak can occur. This can make diagnosis a little time-consuming. Fortunately, most leaks will present little issue. It’s the really BIG ones we’re going to be looking for as they represent the greatest threat to your obtaining maximum efficiency.

    The most common places vacuum leaks are located are in the hoses. These are relatively easy to locate and identify. It’s the ones that are most difficult to locate that we’re going to look for. First, I want to explain EXACTLY why vacuum leaks are so bad for combustion in general.

    The Gadgetman Groove modification is vacuum-based, so the entire intake system needs to have its full integrity. ANY opening in the intake manifold can cause a vacuum leak. The reason for this can be found when you start thinking in PRESSURES and FLOWS.

    Just think about it like this. Take a garden hose and apply 5 psi of pressure, then poke a hole with a straight pin. It will drip a little. The Groove will cause an amplification of the pressure curve (the lows are lower, the highs are higher) then the range of pressures are increased.

    Remember the garden hose? Now apply 50 psi to the same hole. It will shoot a stream of water 30 feet into the air. As this applies to vacuum leaks, consider that The Gadgetman Groove increases the magnitude of the pressure wave created by the motion of the piston as is draws in the air/fuel mixture.

    As the pressure drops during the first half of the downstroke, the low pressure is vastly lower, allowing the outside air to enter at VASTLY higher rates than would occur normally. This means that ALL openings (including mechanical parts) will let in more air than usual.

    Under normal conditions, the ECU can adapt to this, effectively masking the leaks. After The Gadgetman Groove is installed, the ECU cannot be effective at this, and the symptoms of a leak become magnified as the airflow into the intake is magnified. Additionally, as the wave hits its enhanced lows (which we depend on to affect the vaporization of the fuel) the leak allows air in, effectively deflating the effect The Groove creates.

    In other words, the wave The Groove creates is diminished when any access to outside air is present. If the low end pressure is reduced below approximately 24″ Hg, the fuel is less completely vaporized, diminishing the possible gains. Larger openings can not only eliminate the gains but have been known in extreme cases to cause a reduction in engine efficiency.

    The Crankcase Ventilation System is one system that is an engineered flaw in the system. In the interest of reducing HC emissions caused by friction and heat on the motor oil as well as the blow-by gases entering the crankcase, this system was designed to evacuate these gases into the intake manifold so they may be burned in the combustion chamber.

    The vacuum is harnessed to effect this evacuation, in direct contradiction to all principles of engine efficiency. Applying a reduced pressure to your crankcase actually causes more blow-by to be sucked into the crankcase. It also forces the lighter components of your oil to vaporize, leaving your oil thicker and less able to flow through the system.

    All in all, this is engineering overkill.

    So, we simply cap off the vacuum port(s) that supply the vacuum. This will then reverse the flow through the system, allowing the crankcase to vent naturally through the breather tube which is before the throttle plate, thus enhancing the level of vacuum available to the combustion chamber, and increasing the vaporization rate of the fuel.

    Capping off the vacuum port to the PCV alone has yielded increases of from 3-7 mpg’s and MORE! So, consider doing this to your own engines and just watch what happens.

    We will go into the vacuum system in earnest in the next post. For now, you have an understanding of just how important the intake manifold is, and why great care should be taken to ensure integrity of all areas of the intake manifold.

    Here’s a video that shows how Eric the Car Guy does his tests. This is a really good way to find leaks at the intake manifold. (notice this is the 3200 series of GM engines)

    Many mechanics swear by smoke testing. But The Truth is that is NOT an effective test to determine if a system is holding or not holding a vacuum. The ONLY way to know if a system can hold a vacuum is to APPLY a vacuum. For that, you are going to need a hand-held vacuum pump. The one I use is the MityVac 8000, which is used also to make bleeding your brakes a one-man job.

    The testing is really a very simple procedure. I cannot stress strongly enough how important thorough testing is when faced with a fuel efficiency issue, to say nothing about the effects of a leak on your Gadgetman Groove modification.

    So, learn to master this testing procedure and add many many miles to every tank of gas!

    Next up: Post 4-Flubbing the Dub

    If you would like to learn this amazing fuel efficiency technology, we want to hear about it! Email myself, the developer of The Gadgetman Groove and we’ll see what we can do about that.


    Post 1-Basic Flows in a Gasoline Engine

    Post 2-Intake Flows and Wave-Form Technology

    Post 4-Flubbing the Dub

    Post 5-Varnish and Vacuum

    Post 6-Hidden Weaknesses

    Post 7-Diagnosing Error Codes

    Post 8-The Role of Sensors in Fuel Delivery

    Post 9-Adjusting Your Spark Plug for Maximum Efficiency

  • Post 2- Intake Flows and Wave-Form Technology

    Okay, so now you have an understanding of the modern gasoline engine and how it works. You know more than most people out there! (Ain’t you SMART!) (if you haven’t read Post 1-Basic flows within a Gasoline Engine, please do so now.)

    There are TONS of stuff you can do to your engine in the quest for better fuel efficiency. But what are they and what are the effects of them? The answer to that question lies in the technology you’re applying. Here, we are going to deal with Wave-Form Technology (as created by the Gadgetman Groove) and its effects on fluid flows.

    “What is it?” is vastly easier to answer than “What does it DO?” when you’re talking about a computer-controlled engine because every manufacturer has their own protocols and their own management system. Even this is unpredictable, because about every two years, they change their ECU’s. And THAT changes EVERYTHING.

    Still, an engine is an engine is an engine. They all operate on the same principles. It is only the management system that changes and they still have to abide by some rules. The rules will never change. Only the way they are managed. That, my friend is GOOD news!

    Since the principles of operation remain the same, there are a number of things that ARE predictable. Like how The Groove affects the airstream and how that impacts the fuel and how THAT impacts engine efficiency.

    The second most popular video I have on YouTube is titled: “How does The Gadgetman Groove WORK?” and is quite appropriate for inclusion here. As you watch the following video, pay close attention. It should be fairly easy to follow now that you understand how an engine works. To FULLY understand the effects of The Groove, though, you’re going to have to start thinking in pressures and flows. There, you are going to have a LOT of your understanding enhanced.

    So, in a nutshell, The Gadgetman Groove is exactly what it sounds like: it is a groove (a very specially shaped one!) machined into the intake air stream that, when PROPERLY applied and PROPERLY shaped creates a special kind of turbulence that creates some desirable changes in combustion of your fuel.

    With more than 4,000 engines modified world-wide, I can say with absolute CERTAINTY you will love the results. You just have to be aware there are additional concerns to help you get the most from your fuel.

    Now that you’ve got a better understanding of what’s going to change inside your engine and what is REALLY going on inside your intake system, we’ll move on to Post 3-Improving the Vacuum System.

    If you would like to learn this amazing fuel efficiency technology, we want to hear about it! Contact me, Ron Hatton, the developer of The Gadgetman Groove and we’ll see what we can do about that.

    Email me at Gadgetman@ GadgetmanGroove.com right now!

    You’ll be glad you did.

    Post 1-Basic Flows in a Gasoline Engine

    Post 3-Improving the Vacuum System

    Post 4-Flubbing the Dub

    Post 5-Varnish and Vacuum

    Post 6-Hidden Weaknesses

    Post 7-Diagnosing Error Codes

    Post 8-The Role of Sensors in Fuel Delivery

    Post 9-Adjusting Your Spark Plug for Maximum Efficiency